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JOURNEY TO NUEVA GRANADA OF DOCTOR CHARLES SAFFRAY IN 1869
By Roberto Posada
Reference: Fabulous Colombian´s Geography
The New Grenade as seen by two french travelers of the XIX Century
Charles Safffray - Edouard Andre
Compiled and directed by EDUARDO ACEVEDO LATORRE
Litografía Arco, Bogotá, 1980
Fascinating incidents of our history and details of our geography, as well as accounts of our custom come to life in the pages of the narrative of Doctor Charles Saffray, a French Physician, who traveled in Colombia lands during the middle of last century. Doctor Saffray gives us neither the dates of his arrival, of the events which occurred during his journey, nor of his return to the Old World. But because he mentions certain happenings in his narration, we can date his journey as taking place during the revolution of 1860. Nor does Doctor Saffray clearly explain the object of his journey. Perhaps it was in search of mines, or maybe because of his interest in botanical studies; as both themes appear throughout his writings.
His writings consistently reflect his goodwill towards our country. He takes pleasure in describing the beauties of the territory; and he carefully describes the customs of the people and they characters, without making fun or belittleing them. If some negative commentary appears in his writing, for example in his reference to the revolutions, it arises naturally from the simple information he is writing; without exaggerations or epithets interjected by the author. Neither does he stress the revolution´s repugnant aspects. On the contrary, he treats them with discretion and passes over many brutal or grotesque aspects.
Dr. Saffray begins by describing his arrival at Santa Marta, which he finds a picturesque city with it church towers, its customs house, its gardens and the palm groves, lending in the appearance of an oriental city. The mestizo who paddles him to land in the canoe speaks Papiamento, or a type of lingo or French patois language; a barbaric mix of English, French, Dutch, Spanish and native tongues. The few monuments of any significance in the city had been destroyed in 1825, in an earthquake which split apart mount Horqueta. He finds the Indians of the neighborhood a handsome race similar to the Kamuks, with approximately the same color and height.
Later he goes on to Cartagena, which at one time was, he says, the Queen of the Indies. He writes that is anchorage is one of the loveliest of the world, where all of the ships of the fleets of Europe could be accommodated at the same time.
“One of the most striking aspects of the arrival at Cartagena” he adds, “are its fortifications which defend the city from attack by sea. One can see a series of high platformed walls reminding one of the walls of Babylom, which were wide enough to accommodate six charriots side by side along its top. There are bulwarks, and the casemates above a deep moat filled by the ocean tide. The fortifications are remarkable for their gigantic proportions and their harmony, which is such that one feels transported to the ages of chivalry, the days when the Queen of the Indies proudly seated on her coral archipelago, was the focus of commerce from the Philippines, Peru, Colombia and Central America. She guarded her treasures in the shade of the powerful Spanish flag and sent armadas to sea to hunt pirates from Brittany and Nantes whose sailing barks patrolled the entire Caribbean Coast.” Further on, he notes the city´s decadent at his arrival. Humble pirogues had by then, replaced the great ships and three masted schooners of other periods.
Dr. Saffray illustrated his narrative with of lovely engraving of the city which has historic value, as it has been copied from a photograph. He visits the Cathedral ; the bishop´s house; the chapel of La Popa; and the market place, where he list some typical regional goods which attracted his attention.
Dr. Saffray later went to Turbaco where he met an old Indian named Fachimachi, an authentic descendant of the caciques or chiefs of that region, who related interesting histories of the region to Saffray.
The indigenous name of the area was Yurmaco. Near two volcanos a temple to Cemi, the deity of healing, had been consecrated. Cemi´s twelve prelates wore large golden belts and diadems of the same metal, as well as golden filigree half moon pendants, hanging from their noses as insignias of office. Around the temple were huts where they received the sick arriving on pilgrimage. The pilgrims were taken to the mountains of volcanic mud, which had been formed from volcanic eruptions, where they were submerged up to their necks, while one of the priest pronounced some ritual words to bring the deity´s favors.
Legend also says, that the two volcanos erupted in flames some two centuries before Saffray´s visit, because Satan was breathing through their craters. On Corpus Christi day, the priest from the village, in grand ceremony, sprinkled them with holy water and carried out the exorcism ritual where upon they were both subdued, one after the other.
Traveling the Dike road, which he says goes through one of the most lovely places imaginable, he arrived in Calamar, where he remained several days awaiting the arrival of the river steamer.
Dr. Saffray found all the landscapes going up the Magdalena River to be beautiful and he describes them magnificently. Once again we see his great love of nature and his sympathetic treatment of the annoyances of the trip. He never complains about the pests of the discomforts of the river journey, which at that time must have been enormous . The doctor takes special note of an island called Margarita, a true pearl which stands out among all the other riches of the prodigious natural beauty of this area. He calls it a garden created under the inspiration of a poet, and describes its beautiful colors and its marvelous vegetation.
In the river post of Nare, he disembarked and boarded a small boat to travel up the river of the same name (River Nare). He mentions that the boatmen live in terror of a whirlpool he passes on the river, and describes his arrival at the storehouses at San Cristobal ending his second river journey. From there he journeys on mule back towards Medellin arriving after traveling a long difficult road, with rests in Marinilla and Rionegro.
Dr. Saffray narrative of the customs of Medellin during that period is of extreme interest. He speaks of its sedentary, monotonous and simple life. He describes the cathedral and the fountain, imported at great cost from Europe, which existed in Medellin´s main plaza. Among these illustrations of the city are the main plaza, the plaza of San Roque and the walk along the Quebrada.
Then he traveled via difficult roads to the city of Antioquia, where he was very well received. All his neighbors competed in paying him their respects and doing small favors. Leaving Antioquia, not without sadness, he says his departure from the hospitable city caused him to reflect on its prosperous future, when a road trough the territory of Urrao connects it to the river Chaquenendo or Bebara, a tributary of the tranquil Atrato, which flows to the Atlantic in the middle of one of the richest forest regions of the New World.
One of Dr. Saffrays projects on Antioquia was to obtain precise information about the surrounding Indian tribes. He wanted first hang knowledge of their lives and customs, and proposed to get it by spending some time among them. He also hoped they would explain the characteristics of a great number of plants to him. After seven days travel, some of them on foot, he arrived whit his guide in an Indian village where he was able to make himself understood a little of the indigenous dialect. He lived with this tribe for some days, studying its customs. He attended a weeding ceremony and went fishing on the Verde river in the company of some Indians. After words he returned to Medellin.
There he discovered that the country was in open revolution. General Mosquera had just overthrown the government of Mr. Ospina, and has reorganized the country under the name of the United States of Colombia. These events, Saffrays said, did not allow him to continue his projects, without explaining to us what these projects were. He resolved to go on to Gauayaquil through the valley of the Cauca river, and them over the mountains to Pasto and Quito. He them traveled to Sonson and Manizales.
Arriving at this latter city he made a daring climb up to snow capped Mount Ruiz. He wrote of the scenes of war he witnessed in this zones as follows: “Government troops occupied Manizales, while the partisans of General Mosquera, in control of the valley of the Cauca, were advancing toward the village of Maria which was about a league from Manizales. General Henao, the commander of government troops , expected to be able to defend the territory of Antioquia, and even to force out the valley of the Cauca, the numerous but ill-organized bands of General Payan, their self-appointed chief, an ex-attorney”.
With difficulty, Saffray was able to get a safe conduct through the lines to Cartago, a city which he describes as beautiful, with its gardens an clean, well swept streets, its attractive and comfortable residences, and its attractive setting. “In the blessed country, “ he adds, “I venture to say, that the ground is perhaps too fertile, because its very bounty retards progress. Here the laborious and intelligent cultivation forced upon Europeans is unnecessary. A rich soil and a favorable climate don´t force men to work the land for a more than a few days, in order to provide for themselves during an entire year.” He them describes the valley of the Cauca which he gives well deserved praise, which we shall not repeat here to avoid too lengthy an article, although its comments provoke us to copy every line.
He was invited by various friend to travel to Roldanillo, whose climate he found to be delicious; with clean air, in a region rich in alpine and tropical scenery. “I have not seen”, he says, “ a place more appropriate for a philosopher´s or artist´s retreat.
During the revolution, various of the most distinguished families of the Cauca have chosen it as their residence. For all these reasons, my stay which was to have for one or two weeks lasted several months.”
Of Cali, which he later visited, he wrote that it is one of the most beautiful cities in Nueva Granada. He prophesied that its position in the middle of the valley of Cauca promised it a brilliant future, when it is joined to sea by a good road. He notes that its streets are wide, its houses well constructed and surrounded by gardens. He observes that the abundance of water keeps the city clean and fresh and that thought the climate is hot, it is healthy and agreeable.
There has been much troop movement and Saffray mentions meeting a woman named Dolores who had a unusual profession . She had enlisted at the beginning of the war and had obtained through her bravery, the rank of sargent. In the role of the troops she was listed under her feminine mane; and the regiment was proud of her. Saffray accompanied some troops to Quinamayo, where Don Julio Arboleda was headquartered. It took them five days to arrive, even though the distance was short. A peculiar thing happened to him in this place. The army doctor of the distinguish caudillo had been taken prisoner and so Arboleda insisted that Dr. Saffray become the army´s doctor. Saffray at first refused, but after a few days gave in to repeated pleadings on the condition that he need not commit himself to any determined length of service. A short time later he presented his resignation and convinced him to accept it. The parting of the man of medicine and the military man was sorrowful. Saffray quotes the general: “Though you shall again see France, I will not, though there I have left my family and my happiest memories. If I am to die for my country, I would hope that my death would be of some use; but the time for that has not yet arrived. I wish you the best of luck without venturing to add till we meet again.” Six months later, in Panama, Saffray was to learn of the celebrated Colombian´s assassination. In Popaya, Saffray praises the studies of Caldas, in Physics, botany and astronomy; as well as his discovery of the relation between the temperature necessary to bring water to the boiling point and the barometric pressure at differing altitudes. This was the era of the exportation of quinine and Saffray devotes a chapter of the studies of Pitayo and Almaguer on the subject, describing its collection of the forest. He also discusses Muti´s studies of quinine, as well as those as Miguel Santisteban and Jose Triana.
He later decided not to continue his journey to Quito, and instead visit our capital city. Returning to Cartago and them by the arduous Quindio road, he finally arrived in Bogota.
An interesting engraving illustrated his narration. It depicts Bogota´s first Royal street whit its Santafereño Balconies, typical of Bogota, which were wide, heavy and large enough to accommodate an entire family, watching the formal processions on the street below. It also depicts gas lanterns stretched on hire wires across the street. There are few strollers and no wheeled modes of transport. He writes that the new granadians are proud of their capital, and that for those who have never traveled, it is the world´s premiere city. From a distance across the Sabana, Bogota appears to him as a beautiful European style city, nestled in shadow of the mountains. Arriving in the city, he finds the street narrow and doubts the state of its cleanliness. He notes that there are thirty four churches and chapels, eight convents and two hospices, all of ancient construction. The most notable of these religious structures being of that the Dominicans and San Juan de Dios. “The cathedral”, he says, “is constructed in the Corinthian style. It was constructed by a Colombian architect on the same site where the city´s founder has built a wooden church with a thatched roof.” “A citizen”, he adds, “showed me through the cathedral with pride saying: “How lovely it is, but its best feature is that it was constructed here”. An excusable lapse, when one thinks of all the difficulties of every kind, that the simplest constructions encounter in this country”. Saffray comments on the sumptuous altar, its virgin decorated with 358 diamonds, 1.295 emeralds, 372 pearls and 59 topazes and amethysts. He also describes the public library, the national high school, the archbishop´s house, the observatory and the municipal building. Among the illustrations accompanying this account appears the Plaza de Bolivar, with the ancient arches or galleries along its western side, which were destroyed in the fire of 1900. The market in the engraving can still be seen, surrounding the statue of Simon Bolivar.
Saffray estimates that Bogota has some, 50.000 inhabitants, which seems correct in view of the nearly deserted, tranquil streets. He says that the busiest, is the Royal street, where the most important shops are to be found. These stores been nothing more than small general stores, stockings clothes, candles, wines and shoes, small hardware and colognes. The stores serve as the meeting places of social gatherings of small groups of friends and idlers, who endlessly discussed politics, comment on passers-by, and gossip about their neighbors. He finds the city´s inhabitants cultured and friendly. Even though they love their home, they are also interested in what is happening in far off nations. Dr. Saffray finds the ladies of Bogota enchanting in their black mantillas with blond lace borders, or dressed in luxurious ball gowns. Their magnificent black eyes and hair remind him of the following Longfellow verse: “She has two eyes so soft and brown, take care, She gives a side glance and looks down, beware, beware!”.
Saffray notes that industry is nearly non existent in Bogota. Even those articles which would be easiest to be manufacture in the country, such as paper, candles and soap, are brought at great expense from abroad. The artisans are good imitators, but do not how to create. They have not received professional training and they have insufficient tools. They are capable of becoming expert under appropriate tutelage. He describes the Tequendama falls, although he gives us a incorrect image of them. He also discussed the antediluvian bones found in Soacha, and Indian artifacts found in various part of the country. It is strange that he completely omits mention of any government official, or of the legislative corps, or of our administrative institutions. Nor does he speak of our public man, or of any of the events then occurring in the capital, which are of tremendous historic interest.
He resolved to return to Europe from the Pacific coast, since he had already been in Cartagena; and also, in order to collect most of his baggage, which he had stored in Cali. Furthermore, he was interested in traveling through the Pacific coast province of Choco, which had only been described by earlier travelers. He rode down to the Magalena river, on mule, passing through La Mesa and Juntas de Apulo, and arrived at Guataqui where he crossed the river. He penned a most enthusiastic and vivid eulogy of the beauty of the river´s shores. Once more he subjected himself to the horrendous Quindio trail, crossing the mountains back into the valley of the Cauca.
In Cali he discovered that the house, where he had left his baggage and his priceless collections, had been ransacked by the authorities; who had received an accusation against Saffray, stating that he was a partisan of Arboleda. He was thrown in jail, but trough the intervention of his friends there, after a long period of legal maneuvers as well as a payment of $6.000 pesos, he was set at liberty. He them climbed over the Cordillera, to descend to the confluence of the Dagua and Pepita rivers, where tow rowboats took him safe and sound to Buenaventura. He writes a vivid account of the trip down the difficult and treacherous river; which was so dangerous in fact, that a friend who was following him at a very short distance perished in one of it tremendous whirlpools.
In Buenaventura, he decided to go on to Novita, where he was prevented from exploring the outlet of the San Juan, since that would have required a seagoing boat, which were unavailable. But he reach the mouth of the San Joaquin traveling in a simple pirogue. He went up the stream for one day, then crossed to the Guineo river and canoed down to the Calima, which he followed to the San Francisco River. He slowly ascended this river, studying its flora and fauna, and leaving us an interesting account. He also describes the clothes, food and customs of the indians of the Choco region who remind him of the Tartars. Among the customs of this Indians is the extraction of a terrible poison from the batrachians family, whose preparation he describes. He visits Novita, and arrives at the hills which separate the valley of San Juan, from the splendid jewel of the Atrato valley. He crossed them in five hours and boarded another boat in the river Quito, arriving to days later to Citara. There he studied the Cuna and Caimanes Indians, the only tribes in this region which the Spanish could not subdue and who still maintained their complete independence. They speak the Cueva tongue, which is the most extensive language spoken between Veraguas and Guayaquil. They paint themselves red, and live from fishing and huntig.
In Quindio he had met an old Indian named Comagre, the descendant of the cacique, or chief of the same name, who had commanded a numerous, wealthy tribe, in the Darien isthmus during the Spanish conquest. The original Comagre is mentioned in many of our history texts. This Indian have received from his father, the intact oral history of his people, which had been transmitted from generation to generation, describing the remarkable events which had occurred in this zone, more than four centuries before. And even thought the Indian now lived in civilization, his soul was loyal to his race. Thus in his enthusiastic recital of the chronicle, he appeared to re-live the past, hiding with difficult his sorrow. This offspring of the aboriginal dynasty, recalled the founding of Santa Maria la Antigua, the first of our cities. He spokes of Nuñez de Balboa´s march to the west to discover other lands, and of his meeting with the cacique Careta, who lived in continual war with the cacique Pucha. The Indian told Saffray that when Balboa arrived at his ancestor´s Kindom, Comagre offered him peace and friendship, to his son Panquiaco, and told him to the existence of the Pacific Ocean and of the rich communities living on its shores. The language of this friend of our traveler was so filled with imagery as to reminded him of the bards. Saffray later dedicated a few paragraphs to the gold and platinum mines, agricultural production and pearl fishing. His opinion of various projects which were been discussed at that time, are of interest. These were the joining of the two seas either at Tehuantepec, at Nicaragua, and Darien or by the ascending the Atrato river and then passing to the bay of Cupica. He believed it to be feasible to unite the Noanama river, a tributary of the San Juan, with the Quito river, a tributary of the Atrato. This project would only necessitate the excavation of some 500 meters separating the rivers in the Raspadura hills. Saffray recalls that a priest in the village near Novita, had joined two streams by means of such an excavation. He was of the opinion that joining the seas would demand a gigantic effort, and he left that this effort would probably be must successful between Panama city and Chagres.
In this opinion he was correct and even prophetic. It was there that they finally built the American Bosphoruos. It is also probable that a new canal with world commerce demand, will be excavated between the Atrato and the San Juan. The efforts made by the American nation to receive some preference such a project, when the question has been discussed on various occasions, devoted to international matters, reveals that they are well aware of the potential of this project.
The last chapter of the narration, which we shall discuss, concerns the Spanish governing politics in the new world, is the great Council of the Indies, and its royal audiences. It also deals with the war of independence and the revolutions which followed in its footsteps: “These corrupt revolutions”, as Ruben Dario calls them.
Dr. Saffray says that the ability and in some cases the integrity of public official leaves much to be desired. He states that the political motivations, favoritism, and personal interest caused the wheels of government to move; that justice is not always sufficiently independent; and that litigation was attended with unnecessary delays. On the other hand, he feels the nation possesses all of the elements for prosperity, including a vast coast line; large navigable rivers, with many tributaries; a generally healthy climate; and a fertile soil where, depending of the elevation, all of the vegetable families ether grow spontaneously or can be cultivated. And after noting the above, he adds that the country lacks a good road system. He feels that it is necessary to open a road suitable for coaches between Honda and Bogota; to make the Magdalena river navigable, at least to small boats, as far as the valley of Neiva; to establish a road to the Magdalena to the Atrato, through Medellin and Antioquia; to link Popayan and Cali to the Pacific; and to cut through the isthmus o Panama to benefit the world´s shipping. Then Colombia would have immense commercial trade, agricultural and industrial growth.
“In this vast plan” are his final words: “where each individual could employ himself usefully, there would be no room for the pretty, unfortunate rivalries, which have divided and tormented the country for the last fifty years. Because of its geographic position, its resources of all types, its institutions and the characteristics of its inhabitants, Nueva Granada is destined to be the first nation of Southern America. That this happy time comes quickly is my wish as I live this privileged land, where I has left true friends and whose memory will always be dear to me.”
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